Getting around
This is more a travelling and planing blog so if you are looking for my daily life, you’ll have to look somewhere else :)Gravel roads
At last I found the opportunity to go aff tarmac and I did really find some nice gravel roads. The only thing you must look up for is sheep. Fortunately the are always watched by a shepherd. I don’t think I ever seen a working shepherd.
At one part there was serpentines on the way down to this lovely road.
This was a very narrow gravel road. I should have let out more air of the tires because it was quite rocky. This part was just a couple of hundred meters so I didn’t.
Fortified churches
I spent my last day in Transylvania driving around to see the almost uncountable castles and fortified churches. An a roundtrip of about 120 km I could easily find 10 of them.
Sighisoara or Schässburg
I’m not only in Transylvania, I also understand that I’ve reached Siebenbürgen. I could barely remember the germans living in Romania so I was at first very surprised as I saw signs in german. I came in to Brasov, I thought I would see a nice old town. As I went in to the church it said to be named “Schwarze Kirche” and it was a protestant church. I started to read som documents and the history was clearing.
Schwarze Kirche
This was yesterday. It was late and I wanted to hurry to my “Pensionata Citadel” in Sighisoara, or Schässburg. It was not far and I was excited as I entered the town, it looks so nice sitting on a hill with the “Bergskirche” on top.
And what about my Pensionata – right next to the main gate.
Originally I planned to go to Budapest but I decided not to, I’ll stay an extra night here. There is a festival starting today so I think that will be nicer. I will allways have the chance to go to Budapest another day.
Instead I used the day for a drive in the region, checking out the fortified churches and the landscape.
Transsylvanian roads and landscape
Today I’ ve met a lot of very nice roads. It has been a thrill to drive and I was pretty exhausted as I arrived in Sighisoara. I’m still fascinated about the, what else could you say, primitive way the farmer works. It is very interesting to see but it makes me realize that it is a very small part of the world who have modern agriculture.
Here are some photos to illustrate what I mean.
Back home you find all this white giant wheels all over the landscape, here the still use haystacks.
Yet another point
If you have followed me on my journey before, you would know that I tend to go to certain points, like Nordkapp, or Cape Point. This trip does not include any points, but today I reached the most southern point of this trip. From now on I’m going north.
This is the castle Bran in Transylvania. If you like, the Castle in which Dracula should have lived.
Romania
So, I reentered EU, and what a difference it was. The road from Chisinau to the border was very nice over the hills but I could hardly go any faster than 50 km/hour. The tarmac was awful. The border crossing went very smooth, no problem what so ever. Took about 10 minutes.
Driving a lot on smaller roads today I got a good look at the countryside. It is really farming in an old fashioned way. Just look at this horse wagon, you will find them all over the countries, as well Ukraine, Moldova and Rumania.
They are used for just anything, and you really have to watch out for them on the roads. But it’s a nice thing to see, I just loved this, they waved and cheered at me as I overtook them.
Right now, I’m in Bacau. A small town just outside Transylvania. From tomorrow on, I’ll have to watch out for vampires. 😉 Today I just had to watch out for ducks.
My view from the hotel is the best so far, just bad luck, the town is not that pretty.
The roads on the Romanian side are great. Nice bends and serpentines. And hardly any traffic. I hope to get even better roads tomorrow.
Chişinău
The Moldova Capital Chişinău is in many ways similar to other eastern cities I’ve visited so far. It has a very nice mail road with all the western stores like Adidas, Nike, Boss etc. You will also see a big square in front of a big Sovietian styled building.
If you just walk one or two blocks away you’ll find old buildings in great need for repairs, streets with pot holes and side walks filled with rubble and/or parked cars. It is almost impossible to find a postcard. Public busses are electrified and very old.
But comparing to Minsk, Odesa and Kiev I can see some differences:
- People are more western-like dressed. Women has no 15 cm high heels and the skirts are more “normal”.
- More people speak english, even many of my generation.
- In bars and restaurants, you don’t find women trying to make contact with you in a quite suspicious way.
- I had no problem finding a restaurant/bar where they played live music. And with a local audience.
- There are strollers.
On may way around I stumbled on to a flea market. I will go back tomorrow to see if I can find something.
Today I spent the evening in the Maestro Art Club Restaurant. With live music, some very skilled local jazz musicians playing some fine tunes and jamming together. I was invited to sit at a tabel with three Moldavian couples. Very nice, we spook about the country and Sweden. One turned out to be an english teacher. Kathy – please don’t look for mistakes if you surf in on to my blog.
Tomorrow I’ll reenter EU. Rumania is next. I’ve spotted a mountain hotel that I’ll try to find. Internet capabilities I don’t know anything about.
Союз Советских Социалистических Республик
or mostly known by western people as CCCP, The Union of Soviet Socialist Republics, can still be found. As I went in to the town Tiraspol, this sign welcomed me to the town.
The whole sign looks like this:
But I’m getting ahead of things, this day was no ordinary day.
First I wanted to fill up my bike but I couldn’ t find any unleaded petrol. I stopped at four stations before the border but no one could insure me the petrol was unleaded. I got lucky at the fifth place though. I didn’t want to go in to Transnistria with an empty tank.
Shortly after that i reached the border and it was no problem leaving the Ukraine. I’m getting the hang on it so I had all my papers in the right order. As always I overtook all the car queing up. Than a short ride in no mans land and I reached the Transnistrian border control. The first thing I noticed was the signs with a over-crossed camera. So I’m sorry, I have no photos of the procedure passing the border.
I know the drill so I first went to passport control. The first officer, with two stars, looked at me and asked me to follow him in to a special room. Hmm, this is new, I thought.
First question, are you a police man or military? No I answered, I’m a teacher from Sweden. I didn’t know what skolintendent is in english. It turned out to be a very good answer. He than said in poor english, this no Moldava, this Transnistria, you can not pass. Go back 200 km north and pass Maldava. I was not prepared for this, it would mean going back in to Ukraine loosing a lot of time. Then I thought; no, I’ll have to try something. I started to explain me being a Swedish history teacher (I know, a lie, but quite close to the truth 😉 ) going to… Then he stopped me, asked me to wait. He called another officer, this one with four stars. And he spook very good english. So I explained me being a history teacher following the steps of the Swedish king Charles the twelfth. I would just have come from Poltava and now I wanted to go to Bender. I want to be able to tell my pupils how it looks now a days. The officer shine up and understood, he actually know the story. He explained for the two-star officer to go on and let me in. Then he left. Some paper was written and the officer said, you have souvenir for me? I tried not to understand but he was insistent. I first tried with a Selma, a Swedish 20 kr-bill, worth about $ 3. He liked that but it wasn’t enough. I had to give him some more, a $ 20 dollar bill did the trick. I have never seen a bill slipping away in to a mans pocket that fast.
Then I had to go to migration control, that was fast and finally customs. This was a bit more tricky. And they charged me $ 15 for the inspection. Anyway, I passed, it only took two hours. So I thought. After driving 500 m I was stopped by the military. Two very nice soldiers were impressed by the bike. They had to inspect it and was asking for alcohol or cigarets, but I had none. But then I remembered Belerus money works nowhere outside Belarus except for Moldava. I had about $ 5 i Belarus rubels and gave it to the soldier, he was happy and waved me off.
Another 500 meter and a new stop, this time the police. I don’t know why, but they checked my driving licence. This time I didn’t have to give away any “souvenirs”. Now I was in Transnistria.
I didn’t want to have any more contact with the police or any other officials so I really watched my speed and driving. But for no use. After passing city border of Tirasol a very kind police man waved with his stick, asking me to pull over. I didn’t no wy, I was travelling behind a truck doing no more than 45 km/h. The policemen showed me his radar gun showing 73 km/h. Big smile on my face, and on his. Ok, how much, I asked. He took out his book showing the speeding fees. 10 – 20 km/h to fast would cost me $ 10. Ok, I said, gave him the money, and again, it disappeared very fast. I asked if I could take a photo, no problem, he just smiled.
I wanted him to point the laser gun at me, but i hid it behind his back instead.
Then I drew through the town and it was like a drive through an old communist town, I think. First you have the square for the parade:
Then I found the Lenin statue;
and a sign showing some politicians (?) in front of the Kreml in Moscow.
On my way out of this town, I suddenly realize, I’m driving in the wrong direction. My Garmin maps has only “main roads” of Moldava. As I drew around in tha town I missed some roads. It took me half an hour to get back on track. Now towards Bender.
After 15 minutes I crossed the bridge before Bender and can see the fortress and the plains where King Charles made camp back in the 18:th century. Driving over the bridge I missed taking a picture. This turned out to be a big mistake, I wouldn’t get another chance. On the other side, the bridge is guarded by troops and no photographing is allowed. The whole fortress area is closed to public, as far as I can tell. I drew around trying to find an opening and some police officers are getting more and more interested in me. Of course I had to pull over. This time I really wonder what they want, they have no radar gun. “Licence and registration”. No problem, by this time I have them very handy. Then he asked; do you have a first aid-kit and a fire extinguisher? Perhaps that’s the law here, how would I know. Anyway, I have a very fine first aid-kit but no fire extinguisher. Improvise I thought, I have an aluminum water bottle mounted on one of the panniers. Showed the officer and said swedish special extinguisher. He said ok and I could go on. I’m glad he never checked the bottle, it was empty.
I didn’t get any picture, so I’ll borrow one from the web showing the Bender fortress.
Shortly after Bender it the time for some border crossing again. This time leaving Transnistra going in to Moldova. Getting out was no problem, showing some paper, opening the panniers (for the first time) and answering some questions and I could go. Then it was time for Moldova Bender Border Check-point. For the first time I met a very friendly officer and it all went very smooth. I still had to pay for something but that was done in a bank with a lot of papers with stamps. And I got a receipt. Another 50 km and I passed the city limit of Chişinău.
Because of all the fuss with the border crossing, I’ve decided to spend the night there. It was tree o’clock and I was very thirsty and needed something to eat. Coming in to a new city it can be hard to find a suitable place for safe parking. I also didn’t want to keep all may gear on, it was 32 degrees C. What to do? Go to Mc Donalds and park on the sidewalk right in front af the restaurants. No problem, even the police officer showing up gave me thumbs up.
Then I searched for a hotel, I was willing to pay a bit more this time to get safe parking and AC. Found the Jazz Hotel wich offered both. And a free upgrade to a big room. 60 €. This is luxury comparing to all my other nights so far. I even got my laundry done, almost for free, two € is a fine price. And a fast Internet access in the room. More about this town later.
Transnistria
Hmm, I just found out I will cross a new country, Transnistria. It’s not recognized as a country but is a autonomous territorial unit within the Republic of Moldova. The parliament, Supreme Council, still holds the Sovieten name. I will try to find some postcards in Bender. Transnistria has its own postal administration. Sending postcards from there is quite exotic. How many of you have got a postcard from Transnistra?
Lazy day at the beach and some reflections
As planned I haven’t really done much today. Breakfast at eleven in town, a couple of hours at the beach and then planning for the next part; Moldavia and Rumania. The water is nice and not that salty, a bit like the Baltic Sea, just a bit warmer.
Travelling alone you do think and makes reflections a lot. For instance, there are very few children around and hardly any strollers. Yesterday, on a sunday, you would find a lot of them in Stockholm, in cafés, shops etc. But here, I think I saw 4 strollers on the whole day. apparently, kids are not brought along as they are in Sweden.
Ukraine is very easy to calculate the cost for Swedish people travelling here, it’s about the same. Thus Ukraine is not as cheep as Belarus you still can find a lot of cheep food and drinks. Petrol is also very nice, about $ 1 per liter.
Tomorrow I’m off for Bender, if you are interested in history you would know why, otherwise you can read about iy here (Use google translate if don’t understand Swedish). Then I will go to Chişinău, capital of Moldavia. I’ve read about a nice hotel there and it is possible that I will stay one night. It all depends on how long the border passing will take. If border crossing runs smoothly I will go on to Rumania and try to find a nice Hotel in the mountains. I have no idea what Internet standard I will find in Moldavia so the blog could run silent for a day.
Getting around 
